Wow, posting an article on facebook generates a bit of traffic, and, though i didn’t recieve too many comments on the page itself, the feedback i have recieved on “A little bit about morning in Taiwan” has been pretty positive. In light of this, and because I have been waiting to write about this for a little while, here’s a post about my daily commute. 1 hour each way.
The Taipei MRT is supposedly the best light rail system in the world. I can believe this. The trains run at least once every 15 minutes even at the slowest times of the day. During peak hours, they come as often as once every 4. Not only do they come often, but they run 18 hours a day every day. Its incredibly convenient.
To ride the trains you need a MRT card or you can buy tokens at the stations. Tokens are worth different amounts, depending on how far you are going. You swipe the token, or card, to get into the train system, and swipe it again to leave. The fare is automatically deducted from your card.
When I first arrived in Taipei, and knew nothing, one time i got on the wrong train and went to the wrong place. I had to backtrack and try again. But, this only happened once, as I learned during that adventure that next to each door is a row of colored lights corresponding with the color of the line the train will be operating on. Thats right, master your colors, and you too can master Tapei rail.
Perhaps i was distracted by what i consider a miracle of engineering. When you stand at the door of certain stations, you can feel air rushing past you into the station from the outside. At other stations, the air flows the other way. Most of the time you are underground, there is a constant, noticeable breeze. The same is true in the trains themselves. There is an air conditioner, but not one powerful enough to generate the breeze you can feel. This mystified me, so i started paying attention.
Now, this explanation maybe totally mislead, as i have asked people and no one knows to confirm or deny it, but it seems to me that the MRT uses the natural airflow of the island to supplement its ventilation system. Yes, the system seems to be designed so that the prevailing winds, the movement of the trains, and the differences in temperature above and below ground work with the fans to keep the air in the station fresh. That’s some Asian ingenuity right there. Seriously, think about that for a moment. The place is ventilated by the fucking wind!!
Perhaps this is why in April 2009, the MRT recieved an average daily ridership of 1.2 million. And these riders take this shit seriously. As tourist friendly as the buildings, trains, and signage may be, the people of Taipei are unforgiving. They have come to the station to get from point A to point B as quickly as possible, and all other concerns (courtesy, personal space, anyone else but themselves) seem to take a back seat.
When the doors open, people start to get off the train, and they have about 5 seconds to complete this task before people begin to push their way on. This leads to a sort of turbulence as the traffic is trying to flow in both directions at once. There is almost never any violence or shouting, but if you are caught in this vortex, expect to be bumped forcefully.
Once on the train, everyone wants to stand by the door, and will stay as close to is as the crowd allows them. Then, remarkably, as the train moves to a stop, they will push even closer to the doors, preparing to blast off. And blast off they do, when the doors open, hundreds of people move at just short of a run for the stairs and escalators, hoping to be first so they will not have to wait behind anyone slower than themselves.
Its really one hell of a spectacle, and anyone who thinks that Asians always put the group before themselves as individuals should, first, stop generalizing (for shame) and second, watch a middle aged woman cut off an octogenarian on the way to the escalator, pushing him aside and not even looking back. The facial expressions are without joy or mercy, the eyes are fierce.
Every day i get to enjoy this marvel of human engineering and spectacle of human self-service. If you ever come to Taipei, make sure to spend a little time on the MRT.